I call this particular range trek a mirage!
As amateur trekkers,we were awestruck when we first heard about it.
The more we lingered in the mountains the more we fancied doing it some day.
And finally, after years when we garnered confidence to do it,it somehow eluded us!
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| The Quadruple |
An unfinished trek is disappointing but that definitely does not take away the thrill of trekking the rugged Bhuleshwar range that has witnessed the valor and fortunes of rich history.
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| Overlooking the Bhuleshwar range |
To begin with,we had all the things coming together at the right time;all the team members who were longing to do this trek got their back to back 4 days leave approved!
Day 1:
Pune ->Atkarwadi ->Sinhagad->Kalyan Darwaja ->Winzar-> Sakhar -> Gunjawane -> Rajgad
6.15 am : Boarded bus from Swargate to Atkarwadi
7.20 am : Reached the Atkarwadi parking
7.30 am : Started trekking
The day we started our mission was Dasara .In spite of that we could see a number of vehicles parked at Atkarwadi. This is because no matter what the season or occasion is ,it is customary for many to trek the popular Sinhagad on weekends.
We had started trekking when most of them were descending :) .We were greeted with a smile by many regulars.Looking at our heavy rucksacks a few of them enquired. Hearing our ambitious plans,they wished us all the luck. While few pensioners,still in the pink of their health who could give any youngster a run for his money when it came to trekking,reminisced about their good old trekking days , others expressed their wish to do it one day.
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| En route Sinhagad |
Despite the good wishes and positivity around,we have to accept that the rising October heat was taking its toll and we were bogged down by the heavy bags. Just one hour into the trek and we knew what was in store for us for the next three days.
In two hours we reached Sinhagad!!
9.30 am : Reached Sinhagad
After a heavy breakfast of kanda bhajjis and dahi we went to the Dev Taka to fill up our water bottles.Route from Sinhagad to Rajgad has no water cisterns or other water sources.With heavier stomachs and bags we headed to the Kalyan Darwaja.
10.30 : Started trekking from Kalyan Darwaja
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| ‘‘श्री शालिवाहन शके १६७२ कारकीर्द श्रीमंत बाळाजी बाजीराव पंडित प्रधान’’ |
An inscription at Kalyan darwaja that says that this entrance(door) has been mended by Balaji Bajirao.
Walking through the dilapidated structure of Kalyan Darwaja,we started descending. This trail leads to the base village Kalyan. We followed the trail only to a point and then started ascending as we had to traverse the ridge such that Zunjar buruj was to our immediate right. From the mountain outlines,we could identify the forts of Rajgad and Torna.
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| Zunjar Buruj in the backdrop |
The trail from here was not particularly tough but we had to wade through the overgrown dry grass. This traverse had no tree cover and not one source of water. We were exposed to the overwhelming October heat that slowed us down.
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| A big thank you to the kind souls who have marked the route with arrows/ribbons |
As we were trekking on Vijayadashmi, being greeted by the aapta leaves was a beautiful coincidence :) . A house we had seen from a distance was actually a cattle shed.
This cow shed along with a single house is the only settlement here.
There was only one person in this house.He had an extremely unflappable demeanor and was enjoying this low-key good life.He gave us some water that he had got from a nearby well.
3.00 pm : Reached Malavli
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| Cattle shed,Malavli |
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| A 10 days old calf |
After a small descend,we reached a plane and farms thereafter.It took us 45 mins to reach a small village ,Dhangarvadi.
3.45 pm : Reached Dhangarwadi
We decided to have our lunch here.We rested at a school.
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| The Zilla Parishad school at Dhangarpada |
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| Enjoying after a hectic day |
4.00 pm : Reached Winzar
From here we headed to the Winzar village that was another 20 mins of plain walk. We reached the tar road.Exactly in front of an ATM goes a road to Sakhar village. With a little help from the villagers we walked through the farms to Sakhar village but not before losing twice. By now the body was exhausted. After crossing a small stream we reached Sakhar.
Sakhar to Gunjavane is a tar road of about 4 kms. To skip the boring walk on tar road we hired a jeep .As there is no other or a frequent conveyance from here, some squeezed into the already occupied jeep while others made their way to the top :)
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| Sunset en route Gunjavane |
6.00 pm : Reached Gunjavane
After some much needed rest and refreshment,we were now ready to ascend the Rajgad.
7.30 pm : Started ascending Rajgad
As we had started afresh, there was no discomfort.Also,there was no heat.But as time passed by,we knew we were exhausted.With small breaks in between we continued trekking in the torch light.We really pushed ourselves very hard and finally made it to the Chor Darwaja.
9.30 pm : Reached Rajgad
By the time we reached the Padmavti devi mandir,we thought we were more sleepy than hungry.But once the food was served we devoured the parathas until a point where we had to remind ourselves that we need to save some food for the next day :p
The sleep after that is something everyone yearns for :) By 11.00 pm everyone was dead asleep.It was not cold at all.
Day 2 :
Rajgad->Sanjivani machi-> Budhla machi-> Torna
Everyone got up at 6.oo am on their own.We did not have to go around goading people to get up :)
7.00 am : Started towards Sanjivani machi
We started on a very very positive note.Everyone was determined and in a good mood despite the body aches,muscle pains,morning stiffness.
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| Sunrise from Rajgad |
7.40 am : Reached Sanjivani machi
Treading at a constant speed,we soon left the Pali darwaja, the Balle Killa behind and reached the extremely beautiful Sanjivani machi.We started descending from the Alu Darwaja.
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| At Sanjivani machi. Bale Killa in the backdrop |
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| Alu Darwaja |
While the air was still fresh and sun not fully risen,we ascended immediately.As the ascend became steeper,we were thrown out our comfort and struggled our way down.
However,as the heat started creeping in our discomfort was conspicuous.With intermittent patches of tree cover and open lands we plodded with our respective speeds.While we walked continuously to save ourselves from the scorching heat in the open lands,we rested under tree covers.Dehydration was making it very unpleasant.At dhangarwadi in between,one mama helped us find the route amidst the overgrown grass.Though we had carried a lot of water with us,the bottles were emptying fast.
As time passed by ,the situation became more unpleasant.But everyone walked silently fighting their own internal battles.
10.00 am : Reached the Bapuji Bua Khind
After the descend through the forest cover, we reached a khind through which passed a tar road . A lonely hut awaited us so that we could have our breakfast.
After the breakfast we resumed trekking.
The trail was the same as what we had trekked for the last three hours.But the sun was mocking and this time directly over our heads!!!We kept on walking with frequent breaks.
The scorching October heat wave beat the living daylights out of us!!!!We could see the Budhla machi from a distance but no matter how much we encouraged ourselves we were struggling to walk.
1.30 pm : Reached Budhla machi
Putting all our strength,we reached the rock patch and rested for half an hour on our way to Mengai mandir.
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| The rock patch |
2.00 pm : Reached Mengai mandir
We had our lunch at the Mengai mandir. Our 2 friends were to head to Pune from here while others were to continue. Our water bottles were empty by now.The water tank near Mengai mandir has been rendered undrinkable with a lot of garbage dumped in the tank.
3.00 pm : Started towards Walanjai temple
As we were crossing Kokan darwaja, hostility started creeping in.As we were overlooking the route we had to descend till the Walanjai mandir, our worn out ,dehydrated bodies screamed rest.A continuous 2 days trek and the overwhelming October heat had taken its toll.
We had to find the route ahead as no one had done it before.Besides an hour scree till Bhatti village scared us :(. We knew our bodies could not take it anymore.With broken hearts and ailing bodies we decided we would head to Velhe from here and then to Pune.
4.00 pm : Started descending Torna
Descending Torna was not easy. We had been without water for a long time.Physically and mentally we were pushing ourselves more than we could.
6.30 pm : Reached Velhe
Our friends who had descended Torna before us waited for us and had also booked a jeep till Nasrapur phata.After dinner at Nasrapur phata we headed back to Pune by a private jeep.
9.00 pm : Reached Pune
Day 3 :
As we got up on day 3 with aching bodies ,the newspapers read this.
We realized we were trekking in extreme heat and that it was a wrong decision to trek in the October heat.
However,we were down but not out.
Very soon we will complete our mission! :)
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| Team (L-R) : Sai,Rajat,Ravi,Vinay,Yashas,Shweta,Amol,Kiran |
Photography : +Amol Kotkar
A brief history of the forts:
Of the many forts associated with Shivaji Maharaj,Sinhagad,Rajgad,Torna and Raigad are the prominent ones.While Sinhagad,Rajgad,Torna are located in the Bhuleshwar range,Raigad is separated from the range by a ravine.
Sinhagad, earlier called Kondana,captured early in Shivaji's career was later recaptured from the Mughals after a bitter struggle between the Marathas led by Tanaji Malusare and Uday Bhan, Rajput commandant of Mughals.Tanaji Malusare died a martyr. As Tanaji Malusare fought the battle like a lion, Shivaji Maharaj renamed Kondana to Sinhagad(Lion's fort) in his honour.
Rajgad served as the capital of Swarajya for 25 years.The fort with 3 fortified machis and a balle killa.The fort is truly a marvel of construction.Rajgad boasts of the highest number of days stayed by Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj on any fort.The fort has witnessed a lot of historic events,including birth of Shivaji's son Rajaram,the death of Shivaji's queen Saibai,return of Shivaji from Agra,the burial of Afzal Khan's head in the walls of Mahadarwaja of Ballekilla.
Torna was the first fort to be conquered in Shivaji's campaign of Swarajya while he was still in his teens.Legend has it that while renovating the fort,the workers found 3 vessels filled with gold coins which were then used to construct Rajgad.
Pointers :
-Ideal time to do this range trek is September end,November-February
-Water,food,stay available at Sinhagad
-Follow the orange ribbons for the route between Sinhagad-Rajgad.No water available on
this route.
-Conveyance available from Winzar. But you can walk till Sakhar and look for conveyance
from there.
-Food available in Gunjavane
-Ample water available on Rajgad
-If you wish to do Raigad via Lingana after you reach Torna,mark the way near Walanjai
mandir.You can avoid going to Mengai mandir if water available at the cistern near
Walanjai darwaja.Food not available on Torna.
-This range trek demands a lot of physical and mental strength.Be prepared.
-Carry a lot of dry food.
This blog is dedicated to our mad friend from the Bermda triangle,Ravi :P
For more details,write to me at saiupalekar@gmail.com or drop a comment.
